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The Golan

200m away, I can just about make out a Blue Star and the words ‘WELCOME TO ISRAEL,’ painted in bold, capital letters across the roof of what appears to be a gas-station type construction, here out in the middle of nowhere. A tarmac road runs from where I stand right up to it and continuing, [...]

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Probably The Best Restaurant in The World

“Ahhmaaayyzing”, Hussein exclaimed, with the unmistakably deep, throaty voice of a well-practised smoker. As he said it, the said smoke bellowing from his nostrils as if they were the windows of a house on fire.
Having only taken up the art of shisha a few days before, I was amazed how he managed it, my own [...]

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Stranded on a Grey Island

Stranded on an grey island, surrounded on all sides by dusty road, litter, bits of tyre and crystals of broken glass, I arrived in Syria. A small grove of pathetic looking trees provided the only cover from the afternoon sun, and within them, a young man lay back in a plastic chair, doing his best [...]

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The Edge of Civilization

And so begins my accidental trip to Syria by train. It was going to be Iran, it should have been Iran- I’ve done my research on Iran. Syria, I know very little about beyond a fairly decent knowledge of Middle Eastern history, and what I picked up on at Sunday School.
However. Syria deserves better than [...]

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