Loading....
Recent Article links:

Warsaw is Home

Anyone who doesn’t believe in a place called ‘Europe’ has never travelled from Kiev to Warsaw.
Arriving at 7:05 in Warsaw, we decided we better buy our ticket for Cologne or, failing that, Berlin. This would be the third time in a week that we’d queued for tickets. The first two times, it had taken over [...]

Read the article

Probably The Best Restaurant in The World

“Ahhmaaayyzing”, Hussein exclaimed, with the unmistakably deep, throaty voice of a well-practised smoker. As he said it, the said smoke bellowing from his nostrils as if they were the windows of a house on fire.
Having only taken up the art of shisha a few days before, I was amazed how he managed it, my own [...]

Read the article

Stranded on a Grey Island

Stranded on an grey island, surrounded on all sides by dusty road, litter, bits of tyre and crystals of broken glass, I arrived in Syria. A small grove of pathetic looking trees provided the only cover from the afternoon sun, and within them, a young man lay back in a plastic chair, doing his best [...]

Read the article

Taksi!

So now things get interesting. Just under an hour ago, me and my rucksack got shoved out of a moving train onto the platform of a train station somewhere in South Western Turkey station into the late afternoon sun. Aleppo remains about 200km away, and with the train 3 hours late, I’m running out [...]

Read the article

Where The Hell is Adana?

“Adana?” he repeated, presumably to ensure there was no confusion with Antakya, Antalya or any of the other similar-sounding places in Turkey. “Erm, yep, definitely Adana” I replied, tentatively fingering the newly-acquired train ticket in my pocket, not wanting to bring it out in public, lest I look even more unsure of my destination than [...]

Read the article

When in Istanbul, Just Say ‘No’

Istanbul is a hard city in which to say ‘no’. In fact, in Sultanhamet, the tourist area in which I’m staying, it’s near on impossible. And yet, you must learn to say no- and quickly, too, or, by the end of the first day you will find yourself up to your arms in convincingly [...]

Read the article

Grubbiness

So in the afternoon, I got drunk on the train from Belgrade to Istanbul, whilst reading an entire book on the Arab-Israeli conflict. It’s amazing how two litres of special-brew standard Serbian beer makes the time go by, accompanied by the necessary repeated stops to the grubby little toiley on this grubby little train. Staffed, [...]

Read the article

Belgrade- living history?

Accompanied by 4 litres of sparkling water, 2 litres of still, 3 litres of beer and 1 of Coca Cola, some jelly beans, pretzels, pistachios, twix, peaches, bananas and cereal bars, and with a 24 hour train journey ahead of me, I’m now comfortably positioned in my couchette, complete with washbaisin a la Phileas Fogg, [...]

Read the article

The (old) New Frontier

We got into Vienna 40 minutes late, and so was expecting to miss the train to Belgrade…particularly given my embarassing lack of German knowledge, beyond the ability to say my name and count to ten.
We are, however, in the midst of the European Cup in this city, and so, despite the lack of England and [...]

Read the article

Along the Rhine

The Rhine was exactly as I imagined it and, regretfully, reminiscent of a ‘Rhineland Cruise’ ride I’d been on at Busch Gardens in Virginia, USA when I was 12. Without the Big Bad Wolf roller coaster. An Austrian would, of course, slap me for saying it and I’m sure the rest of you will be [...]

Read the article